Nick and I arrived in Bangkok on the evening of 4 July, 2014, with much excitement seeing it was our first trip to Asia. We booked tickets in and two weeks later out of Bangkok but nothing more since we wanted our plans to be fluid. I knew what types of things I wanted to do during this trip: several cities in Thailand, perhaps Cambodia, perhaps a few cities in Vietnam. Needless to say the itinerary was too full for the 15 days we had. I was bound to make the most of our time and I figured we could do that best by showing up with nothing but our computers, an over-sized backpack, and a lot of ambition. Little did we know we’d be throw
n a fast curve ball our very first day.
We arrived at Suvarnabhumi (pronounced Sa-wan-a-poom I learned, for those that don’t speak Thai) International Airport as expected but exhausted after 32 hours on planes. We had just flown from Washington, DC to Detroit, MI to Tokyo, Japan, to Bangkok, Thailand. The last leg from Japan to Thailand was the hardest, another 9 hours after just having spent over 14 non-stop hours to get to Japan. That night we wondered the street a bit, jet lagged is an understatement, looking (unsuccessfully) for a bar to grab a drink. We were relatively delirious since neither of us really sleeps on planes and instead ended up crashing at our hotel, the Urbana Sathorn Bangkok, in favor of waking up bright and early for a full day in the light. After all, we weren’t certain how safe the neighborhoods were or who would try to take advantage of us as the new tourists in town. It was also just after the military coup, curfew, and marshal law that had shaken the country just weeks before.
Finally, the 5 July
comes and we head out of our hotel room on top of the world, excited to tackle Bangkok after some well deserved sleep. We asked our hotel for advice on sites to see and things to do. We quickly found the reports of the Thai people’s friendliness to be true. They graciously helped us by circling a number of attractions they figured most American/Western tourist would like. Now, I’m not so similar to most American tourists. I prefer to see the culture and people when I travel not the fancy malls and luxury resorts. That’s how I ended up at the JJ Market Bangkok, the locals only mall, that I’ll cover in another post. But the hotel thought we’d enjoy shopping and lunch later at the Siam Center.
After talking to the staff we headed out on foot, crossing many foot bridges that we learned are ubiquitous with Bangkok and it’s highways. We were immediately taken back by the telecom system and how what seemed to be dangerous wires were hung in a haphazard way that could easily result in injury. We pushed forward to the Sky Train since I prefer to use mass transit when available and, beside, these Sky Trains were pretty cool! Arriving at the Siam Center we immediately realized what it was—a massive Western-style luxury mall with all the expected brands. It was beautiful, it was air conditioned (which was nice considering the heat was ne
arly intolerable even for me), and it had Starbucks. There was a great deal of comfort that it was so similar to much of what you would see in the United States but it wasn’t the experience I was there to seek. We had to go—and we did after wandering a short time and eating some lunch.
By now we were a little antsy and looking to experience Thailand. I noticed a nearby temple, Wat Pathumwanaram Ratchaworawihan, that I wanted to see. Thailand is known for their beautiful Buddhist Temples (or Wat) that date back hundreds and even thousands of years. It was a must-see in my mind and we were off to see it with my usual determination. After dodging some traffic and getting lost in the alleys a few times, that is.
Upon entering the campus of the Wat, we were approached by a man wearing what appeared to be a formal security uniform. He informed us that the Wat was closed for a holiday. We later learned every day in Thailand was a holiday, and the site wasn’t even closed. We’ll get to that…
Luckily for us, he had an alternate plan. We could take a river and canal tour on a private long boat and stop at Wat Arun, one of the oldest and most impressive in the city. We were delighted to be helped by this guard who just sparred us so much planning. We agreed to the plan: tuk tuk to the pier, long boat up the Chao Phraya into the old city canals through “real” Bangkok, stop at the floating market, spend an hour at Wat Arun, then long boat back to the pier. All for just 2,000 baht (about $60) each. Before we knew it we were in a tuk tuk the guard had flagged down and provided instructions in Thai. The tuk tuk sped off with vigor and a
bit too much confidence considering the vehicle size.
We twist and turned down highways and then eventually what would be consider alleys, though it was more of mixed pedestrian and motor bike traffic sidewalk. By the time we were in the older part of Bangkok, we were a bit concerned because we had made so many turns and we now appeared to be in a very chaotic area. But to our pleasure we landed right where we had been told by the guard. A strange pier that had been described as the “local’s pier”, and it definitely just that. The pier was worn but appears safe enough. We paid our 2,000 baht each to a lady behind a tattered folding table. We then boarded a faded long boat that seemed to be once vibrant and colorful. We had two attendants for just us two, a one to one ratio that seemed a bit excessive considering the boat could hold many more.


Nick had brought his professional camera along for the trip and was able to take many amazing photographs as we trekked the river and then local canals. It was amazing in the old city canals the diversity of housing that peppered the waterways. Some of the houses were gorgeous and could be described as complexes or estates. Others were literally not even standing, clearly the shambled remains from what was once a great structure. Yet others were somewhere in between and were a patchwork of makeshift solutions for everyday living. Some of these appeared to house multiple or extend families. Children played along the banks of the canals on outdoor patios overlooking.


Halfway through the boat ride, we stopped at a floating market. Other long boats, plain and without the decor our longboat once touted, pulled up next to us with a variety of wears. Many were similar to what could be found in the night markets on the streets or in shops around town. Since I don’t place much value in items and the prices were steep compared to what could be found elsewhere we passed on buying any trinkets. We did however buy for ourselves and our boat captain a Chang beer that brought a little relaxation as we continued down our route.
Eventually we made it to the renowned Wat Arun. This Buddhist temple has existed in some variation since the Ayutthaya Kingdom, the early kingdom that predates the Siam Kingdom and eventually evolved into modern-day central Thailand. The Wat was gorgeous from afar and reflected the hundreds of years of wear and tear that made it delightfully unique. I was taken back by the gold-roofed buildings surrounding and the statues that peppered the grounds, many of the iconic Buddha. We slowly worked our way to 
the central spire where we planned to hike up the steep stars to the top for a view the the site and central Bangkok.
Once gaining access to the central spire and upon closer examination, the architecture came to life. The ornate decoration revealed itself to be a cement like product with embedded porcelain. It appeared as though thousand and thousands of vases had been broken into small pieces and each individually selected and inset. Being terribly afraid of heights, I took a deep breathe and began the half hour journey to the top that had at one point bad voyaged daily by monks seeking enlightenment. Several times Nick captured my expression as we pushed forward, each starway more narrow and steep than the last. I grasped the modern handrails that had been installed more recently for safety as I began to worry about the journey down. As difficult as it was to get to the top, I could imagine the way down being even more treacherous.
Having made it this far on our first day in this gorgeous city I wasn’t looking back. We eventually made it to the top and the spectacular views made it worth every moment, reassuring me that I was r
ight to ignore each doubt. The gorgeous roofs that glowed from afar were even more breathe-taking from above. We spent nearly an hour gazing from every vantage point and then wandered around on the main campus below. As scary as the trek to the top of the temple was, heading back down was definitely more daunting. Several times on the steepest of the stairs I basically sat down and scooted to the next stair gripping the railing all along.
Once we were finished touring the site, we loaded back into our long boat. We jetted down the Chao Phraya to the dock where we had originally loaded. Pleased with our tour, we tipped a small amount but much more than what is customary in Thailand where tipping is uncommon. We walked towards the nearest Sky Train station coming across similar tours for just 1,000 baht or less per person. We thought this was odd and perhaps we had received a better tour. A little out of sorts as any tourist of a foreign land would be, we got on the train and were on our way back to our host neighborhood for some food.
That night, I pulled out the Lonely Planet book lent to me by a coworker. I had studied it inside and out for a week and especially during the 32 hour plane ride. There was a notable section on touts and scams, as they are quite common in Bangkok, that enticed my eyes once again. As I read through it I realized it was abundantly clear: a common scam in Bangkok is for an “official” or “guard” to approach claiming the temple is closed while offering an elaborate adventure instead. These adventures, of course, come in at the very high end of the price range for services.
We had been had. But it was worth every baht.
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